Those buying their first AR-15 will come across a very confusing array of choices and options. This article is intended to simplify that process with some basic recommendations. Keep in mind that I'm not a firearms expert and not a gunsmith, but I've built a few AR-15's, competed in a few NRA High Power service rifle matches, and spent a few years in the infantry. Take my opinions and compare them to information from other sources and make up your own mind. The following applies to an all around general purpose AR-15 for self-defense / target shooting. This does not apply to special purpose rifles for match shooting, long range, etc.
You can buy a complete rifle or you build it yourself. I recommend building the lower yourself and buying a complete upper. If you want to save some money and build the lower yourself, see my earlier posts: "Building a High Quality Low Cost AR-15" and "Tools for Building an AR-15 Lower."
The lower receiver is the heart of the rifle. If you are building your own, get this first. This is the only part that you cannot mail order for delivery to your home. I would get if from your local gun shop (LGS). You could buy it online and then pay a fee to your LGS to transfer it to you, but you probably won't save much. I recommend the standard AR-15 lower without any special bells or whistles. Almost all lowers are made by one of four manufacturers and then rebranded. It doesn't matter which one you go with, but stay away from Hesse, Vulcan or Blackthorne.
As for the rest of the lower parts. Plain GI mil-spec is the way to go initially. If you plan on putting in a better trigger (more on that later), you can get a lower parts kit minus the fire control group to save a few bucks. Receiver extensions (buffer tubes) come in mil-spec or commercial varieties. The mil-spec variety uses a more expensive manufacturing process that makes it strong. The commercial is made less expensively, but with thicker metal to compensate. It doesn't really matter which you go with, except that your buttstock will have to be either mil-spec or commercial spec to match it. I recommend the standard M4 6-position collapsible buttstock. These come in both commercial or mil-spec. Magpul stocks also come in commercial or mil-spec. I don't know about other brands. I went with mil-spec just because it made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. As for the buffer, I went with the H buffer that comes with the lower parts kits that I bought. Carbine buffers have 3 weights inside. A standard buffer has 3 steel weights. An H (heavy) buffer has 1 tungsten and 2 steel. H2 has 2 tungsten and 1 steel. H3 has 3 tungsten. The buffer can effect cycling and reliability. I have had no issues with my H buffer. If you do have reliability issues, you can experiment with different buffer weights.
For the upper receiver, go with a flat top. This allows you more options later. For the rest of the upper receiver parts, go with GI mil-spec. I like plain GI style hand guards with heat shields. They are inexpensive, and they work. They don't offer a lot of options for mounting gizmos, but I don't need a lot of gizmos. You can always get a quad rail later to mount a bunch of crap.
As for barrels, I like a 16" barrel with a mid length gas system. A 20" barrel is bit more accurate at longer ranges with a trade off in handiness and maneuverability. Some people like the M4 style barrels, but they are still 16" (unless you want to go with an SBR and deal with the ATF). They have a short carbine length gas system that is not as reliable, and a bayonet won't work unless you put a a special adapter. You could get a 14.5" barrel with a pinned/welded flash hider that is ATF legal, but now you can't remove your flash hider or gas block later if you want to swap out components. I recommend a government profile chrome lined barrel. The government profile is a nice compromise between the accuracy and strength of a heavy barrel and the light but weak pencil barrel. You can get chrome moly vanadium (CMV) barrels or cold hammer forged (CHF). CHF is better, in that they last longer, but are more expensive. A standard CMV barrel will do just fine. You want a barrel extension that has M4 feed ramps for reliable feeding. You want an "F" height front site base, to match your flat top upper. Twist rate can get confusing. Most barrels these days are either 1/7, 1/8 or 1/9. 1/7 means the the rifling makes one rotation in 7 inches. Different twist rates are useful for stabilizing different bullet weights. It all depends on what ammo you are going to use. 1/9 is better for the cheap 55 grain bullets, but not so great for heavier bullets. 1/7 is better for 62 (green tip) to 77 grain (match grade) bullets. 1/8 is a compromise between the two, and the best bet for a general purpose rifle. 1/7 is not a bad choice, but you may have accuracy issues with 55 grain rounds. You want a rifle chambered in 5.56 not .223.
The bolt carrier should be a full auto profile (the ATF won't hassle you for this) and chrome lined. The full auto profile carrier is heavier and cycles better. The gas key should be chrome lined, hardened, have grade 8 fasteners, and be properly staked. The bolt should be Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened, high pressure tested (HPT) and magnetic particle inspected (MPI). The bolt and carrier take a beating. These features help ensure that it doesn't break when you need it.
Now for accessories. A rear sight should not be considered an accessory, but a lot of so-called "complete" rifles don't have one. No big deal, this allows you more flexibility to choose your own. I like the standard mil-spec carry handle with A2 style sights. Learn the basics of marksmanship with iron sights before you go and buy the latest gee-whiz optic. A Meprolite tritium front site post will allow you to aim in the dark. A GI loop sling is a great starter sling for learning marksmanship fundamentals. If you don't know what I'm talking about, look for the one my by CJ Weapons that Midway sells. This is the same sling that Appleseed recommends. Another upgrade to consider is a better trigger. I recommend the ALG Defense advanced combat trigger. It is a standard single stage GI type trigger, but better quality. Crisp break and no gritty feel. I have heard that Velocity Triggers are good, but they are also more expensive. I have not used their product, so I cannot vouch for it personally. If you want to mount a flashlight, Hot Shot makes a magnetic mount that lets you mount a standard tactical light, like a SureFire. It doesn't require any kind of mounting bracket. Bravo Company makes an extractor spring upgrade kit. People say it increases reliability. I drank the Kool-Aid and bought it. My rifle fired just fine before and after. Does it help? Maybe, but I'm only out $5.
I almost forgot magazines. You can't go wrong with the Magpul M2 MOE 30 round magazine. I've never had a problem with these mags and they can be found for $10-12 each. The M3 is supposed to be better, but a little more expensive. Since I've never had an issue with the M2, and they still make it, I'm sticking with it. I've never had use for the mags with windows. If you have GI aluminum mags, upgrade them with Magpul followers. This improves reliability by not allowing the follower to tilt.
He is a summary of recommended specs:
Lower - anything but Hesse, Vulcan, Blackthorne
Lower parts - mil-spec (minus fire control group if getting ALG trigger)
Receiver extension (buffer tube) - mil-spec (or commercial)
Buttstock - M4 6-position (mil-spec or commercial to match the receiver extension)
Buffer - H
Upper - flat top
Barrel - 16", mid length gas system, 1/8 twist (2nd choice 1/7), CMV (or CHF), chrome lined, GI profile, 5.56 chamber, M4 feed ramps, F height front sight base
Hand guards - standard GI
Bolt carrier - full auto profile, chrome lined, hardened chrome lined gas key, grade 8 fasteners, properly staked
Bolt - Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened, HPT/MPI
Rear sight - standard GI carry handle with A2 sight
Accessories / Upgrades
Magazines - Magpul M2 MOE (
CJ Weapons GI web sling
Meprolite tritium front sight post
ALG Defense advanced combat trigger
Hot Shot magnetic flashlight mount
Bravo Company extractor spring upgrade kit
Optics - Learn the basics of rifle marksmanship with iron sights first, then do your own research.
Recommended sources:
Palmetto State Armory
Midway
Brownells
Sunday, October 4, 2015
Monday, September 28, 2015
Fight for Liberty!
On exiting the Constitutional Convention, Benjamin Franklin was asked what sort of government had been created and he replied, "A republic, if you can keep it." So how do we keep it? How do we maintain the liberty we have, and restore liberty that we have lost? Below, I will outline my thoughts on this subject.
Education
You can not advocate effectively for a principle that you do not understand. It requires a solid knowledge base on the fundamentals of natural rights and the founding of our country. If you have not read the Declaration of Independence, the US Constitution, or the Federalist Papers, then you have homework to do. Once you have read the founding documents, you need to understand them. I recommend Clinton Rossiter's book: The Political Thought of the American Revolution: Part III of "Seedtime of the Republic." This book is no longer it print. It can be found at Amazon.com, but you may have to watch and wait to get it at a reasonable price. It is not light reading, but if you truly want to understand the principles of liberty and the founding of our nation, you would be hard pressed to find a better resource. Another excellent book is Paul Revere's Ride by David Hackett Fischer. This is an account of the events surrounding the outbreak of the American Revolution. It is a fascinating book. Much of it reads more like a good novel than a history book. Another excellent resource is the free online education available at Hillsdale College. I highly recommend their Constitution 101 course. After you educate yourself, share with others. Teach your children. Encourage your friends and relatives to, at a minimum, read the Constitution.
Voting
Vote in every election. Research the candidates. votesmart.org is a good resource.
Be Represented
Contact your representatives. Find out who represents you and make your options on the issues known. Tell them how you want them to vote. You can find out who your representatives are and how to contact them on votesmart.org.
Jury Duty
If called on for jury duty, educate yourself. Understand why the right to trial by jury was included in the Bill of Rights. Understand the concept of jury nullification, and how this is part of the system of checks and balances. A good resource is the Fully Informed Jury Association.
Be Part of the Militia
If you are an able bodied man between the ages of 17 and 45 or a veteran under the age of 65, you are the unorganized militia according to US Code Title 10, Section 311. You should be physically fit, have a rifle and ammunition, and be a good marksman. Project Appleseed can help you with the latter. This is not a call to arms. I do not advocate the violent overthrow of the US Government. We live in what some call a "soft" tyranny. There is still time and opportunity to work within the system. A conversion to "hard" tyranny would necessitate taking up arms. An well armed citizenry proficient at arms serves as a strong deterrent to that conversion. In other words: A well regulated militia is necessary to the security of a free state.
When the founders framed the Constitution, they devised a system of checks and balances. Know that the citizenry is part of that system. Education, voting, communicating with your representatives, serving on juries, maintaining arms and skill at arms are the means to that end.
Education
You can not advocate effectively for a principle that you do not understand. It requires a solid knowledge base on the fundamentals of natural rights and the founding of our country. If you have not read the Declaration of Independence, the US Constitution, or the Federalist Papers, then you have homework to do. Once you have read the founding documents, you need to understand them. I recommend Clinton Rossiter's book: The Political Thought of the American Revolution: Part III of "Seedtime of the Republic." This book is no longer it print. It can be found at Amazon.com, but you may have to watch and wait to get it at a reasonable price. It is not light reading, but if you truly want to understand the principles of liberty and the founding of our nation, you would be hard pressed to find a better resource. Another excellent book is Paul Revere's Ride by David Hackett Fischer. This is an account of the events surrounding the outbreak of the American Revolution. It is a fascinating book. Much of it reads more like a good novel than a history book. Another excellent resource is the free online education available at Hillsdale College. I highly recommend their Constitution 101 course. After you educate yourself, share with others. Teach your children. Encourage your friends and relatives to, at a minimum, read the Constitution.
Voting
Vote in every election. Research the candidates. votesmart.org is a good resource.
Be Represented
Contact your representatives. Find out who represents you and make your options on the issues known. Tell them how you want them to vote. You can find out who your representatives are and how to contact them on votesmart.org.
Jury Duty
If called on for jury duty, educate yourself. Understand why the right to trial by jury was included in the Bill of Rights. Understand the concept of jury nullification, and how this is part of the system of checks and balances. A good resource is the Fully Informed Jury Association.
Be Part of the Militia
If you are an able bodied man between the ages of 17 and 45 or a veteran under the age of 65, you are the unorganized militia according to US Code Title 10, Section 311. You should be physically fit, have a rifle and ammunition, and be a good marksman. Project Appleseed can help you with the latter. This is not a call to arms. I do not advocate the violent overthrow of the US Government. We live in what some call a "soft" tyranny. There is still time and opportunity to work within the system. A conversion to "hard" tyranny would necessitate taking up arms. An well armed citizenry proficient at arms serves as a strong deterrent to that conversion. In other words: A well regulated militia is necessary to the security of a free state.
When the founders framed the Constitution, they devised a system of checks and balances. Know that the citizenry is part of that system. Education, voting, communicating with your representatives, serving on juries, maintaining arms and skill at arms are the means to that end.
Wednesday, September 9, 2015
Tourniquet Experiment
I have been wondering about how the effectiveness of modern tourniquets, like the CAT, compares to a traditional cravat and stick tourniquet. I have also heard that an Israeli bandage makes a decent tourniquet if you use a stick to tighten it. That made me wonder if an ACE bandage, which I have used on numerous occasions as an effective pressure dressing, would work as a tourniquet if you added a stick to use as a windlass.
The authority on tourniquets is the US Army Institute of Surgical Research (USAISR). They have published numerous studies on the subject. Their experiments sometimes use human subjects and measure arterial occlusion with a doppler device.
I couldn't find anything comparing the old fashioned cravat and stick, like I learned in basic training, to the new tourniquets. I also wanted to see what an ACE and stick could do. I didn't want to use human subjects. I'm not planning on publishing my little experiment, other than on my own blog. So I came up with the idea of using a football to simulate a thigh. I deflated it to 2 psi (103 mm Hg), pretty close to normal human blood pressure, applied each tourniquet, and measured the pressure again. Each of the 3 methods I tried, increased the pressure in the football to 3 psi (155 mm Hg). High enough to exceed the arterial pressure in most humans. There are numerous flaws in my methodology. A football is not perfectly analogous to a thigh, my pressure gauge is not very accurate, etc. However, nobody got hurt, and I think it gave a decent comparison, relative to each other, of how much pressure each tourniquet could give. We know from USAISR's research that the CAT is effective.
Here is the CAT applied to the football. Also shown is the pressure gauge.
Now a standard military issue triangular bandage NSN 6510-00-201-1755 (cravat) with a stick (3/8 x 6" oak dowel). It generated just as much pressure, but you can see where the cloth rolled up, narrowing the width of the tourniquet. This could potentially cause pain and tissue damage.
Now the ACE bandage (3") and stick. I used a zip tie to secure the stick in place. It also generated adequate pressure, but rolled up like the cravat.
Conclusions: A cravat or an ACE bandage with a stick can be used to make an effective tourniquet. They cannot be applied one-handed, limiting their application for self aid to an upper extremity injury. They both roll up and narrow, likely causing pain and tissue damage. Applying the tourniqet over clothing could limit this effect.
If you remember my prior post on making a budget IFAK, we could use some of the lessons learned in this experiment to make a pocket or EDC IFAK, like the Student of the Gun (SOTG) Pocket Lifesaver. Knowing that a tourniquet can be made out an ACE bandage, we could eliminate the triangular bandage and limit the items in the kit to the following:
nasopharyngeal airway, 28 Fr
ABD pad or maxi pad
3" ACE bandage
3/8 x 6" oak dowel (maybe even 5")
36" of duct tape on a credit card
I am going to put together such a kit, vacuum pack it with a FoodSaver, and post some pics. We'll see how convenient it is to carry around.
At $39.95, SOTG's Pocket Lifesaver is a good deal. The cost is not much more than the cost of the RATS tourniquet and nasal airway that it contains. I think their kit would be neater if the duct tape were on a credit card. The RATS tourniquet can be applied one handed. I'm not sure of its effectiveness. They say that it is TCCC approved, but that is misleading. See this article for the details on that. I guess I will have to get one and test it on the football. While I'm at it, I just might make a DIY tourniquet like the RATS from a Walmart bungee cord, and test it too.
The authority on tourniquets is the US Army Institute of Surgical Research (USAISR). They have published numerous studies on the subject. Their experiments sometimes use human subjects and measure arterial occlusion with a doppler device.
I couldn't find anything comparing the old fashioned cravat and stick, like I learned in basic training, to the new tourniquets. I also wanted to see what an ACE and stick could do. I didn't want to use human subjects. I'm not planning on publishing my little experiment, other than on my own blog. So I came up with the idea of using a football to simulate a thigh. I deflated it to 2 psi (103 mm Hg), pretty close to normal human blood pressure, applied each tourniquet, and measured the pressure again. Each of the 3 methods I tried, increased the pressure in the football to 3 psi (155 mm Hg). High enough to exceed the arterial pressure in most humans. There are numerous flaws in my methodology. A football is not perfectly analogous to a thigh, my pressure gauge is not very accurate, etc. However, nobody got hurt, and I think it gave a decent comparison, relative to each other, of how much pressure each tourniquet could give. We know from USAISR's research that the CAT is effective.
Here is the CAT applied to the football. Also shown is the pressure gauge.
Now a standard military issue triangular bandage NSN 6510-00-201-1755 (cravat) with a stick (3/8 x 6" oak dowel). It generated just as much pressure, but you can see where the cloth rolled up, narrowing the width of the tourniquet. This could potentially cause pain and tissue damage.
Now the ACE bandage (3") and stick. I used a zip tie to secure the stick in place. It also generated adequate pressure, but rolled up like the cravat.
Conclusions: A cravat or an ACE bandage with a stick can be used to make an effective tourniquet. They cannot be applied one-handed, limiting their application for self aid to an upper extremity injury. They both roll up and narrow, likely causing pain and tissue damage. Applying the tourniqet over clothing could limit this effect.
If you remember my prior post on making a budget IFAK, we could use some of the lessons learned in this experiment to make a pocket or EDC IFAK, like the Student of the Gun (SOTG) Pocket Lifesaver. Knowing that a tourniquet can be made out an ACE bandage, we could eliminate the triangular bandage and limit the items in the kit to the following:
nasopharyngeal airway, 28 Fr
ABD pad or maxi pad
3" ACE bandage
3/8 x 6" oak dowel (maybe even 5")
36" of duct tape on a credit card
I am going to put together such a kit, vacuum pack it with a FoodSaver, and post some pics. We'll see how convenient it is to carry around.
At $39.95, SOTG's Pocket Lifesaver is a good deal. The cost is not much more than the cost of the RATS tourniquet and nasal airway that it contains. I think their kit would be neater if the duct tape were on a credit card. The RATS tourniquet can be applied one handed. I'm not sure of its effectiveness. They say that it is TCCC approved, but that is misleading. See this article for the details on that. I guess I will have to get one and test it on the football. While I'm at it, I just might make a DIY tourniquet like the RATS from a Walmart bungee cord, and test it too.
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
Print Your Own Targets
Here are some links to targets that you can print at home.
Leave a comment if any of these links go dead, or if there is a target of general interest that should be posted here.
M16 25 meter zero target
Appleseed 25 m AQT targets
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12702
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12703
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12704
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12702
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12703
http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9833.0;attach=12704
Appleseed 10 m target
I use this for indoor dry firing.
http://www.bob-owens.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Appleseed.png
Various websites with free printable targets
http://www.mytargets.com
http://www.targetz.com
http://www.targets.ws
http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/targets/
http://printtargets.net
http://www.gun-shots.net/free-printable-targets.shtml
http://www.lyndenhuggins.com/hunting/info/targets/targets.htm
http://mysticvalleygunclub.com/printable-targets/
I use this for indoor dry firing.
http://www.bob-owens.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Appleseed.png
Various websites with free printable targets
http://www.mytargets.com
http://www.targetz.com
http://www.targets.ws
http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/targets/
http://printtargets.net
http://www.gun-shots.net/free-printable-targets.shtml
http://www.lyndenhuggins.com/hunting/info/targets/targets.htm
http://mysticvalleygunclub.com/printable-targets/
Leave a comment if any of these links go dead, or if there is a target of general interest that should be posted here.
Tuesday, June 9, 2015
Keep Your Powder Dry!
Many people who store ammo use 50 cal ammo cans and silica gel desiccant packets to absorb moisture. I have seen various arguments against using desiccant in various forums. Some will say they have ammo they have stored for decades without desiccant and it works just fine. Or that military surplus ammo is already waterproof. They don't explain why the military bothers to store it in waterproof cans if it's already waterproof. Nobody says that using desiccant harms your ammo. I have seen corroded ammo, although I confess that it still worked. Still, I would rather play it safe. Silica gel packs are not very expensive and can be purchased from most retailers that sell firearms accessories. That being said, you can easily make them yourself for next to nothing. A 4# bag of silica gel kitty litter sells for $4.17 at Walmart. I have heard that rice will also work, but my understanding is that silica gel is the superior desiccant.
I just happened to have a 1 gallon can of government issue desiccant that was given to me by a friend who was cleaning out his garage.
I searched the internet to find out how much silica gel is ideal for an ammo can. I saw answers ranging from 10 g to 40 g. Supposedly, 40 g will keep a 3 cubic foot area dry. I tried making a packet with 40 g, and it a bit too big, so I went with 25 g.
I used coffee filters (8-12 cup basket type) and weighed them on a kitchen scale. I swear that scale read 25 g right before I snapped that pic. I found that 2 heaping tablespoons was just about 25 g.
Gather up the edges until it looks like a teabag that is about 2" across the top.
Fold over the top edge and staple.
Toss it in with your ammo and close the can.
They say that you can "recharge" silica gel by baking it in an oven at 200 deg for 3 hours. I plan to recharge them once a year.
I just happened to have a 1 gallon can of government issue desiccant that was given to me by a friend who was cleaning out his garage.
I searched the internet to find out how much silica gel is ideal for an ammo can. I saw answers ranging from 10 g to 40 g. Supposedly, 40 g will keep a 3 cubic foot area dry. I tried making a packet with 40 g, and it a bit too big, so I went with 25 g.
I used coffee filters (8-12 cup basket type) and weighed them on a kitchen scale. I swear that scale read 25 g right before I snapped that pic. I found that 2 heaping tablespoons was just about 25 g.
Gather up the edges until it looks like a teabag that is about 2" across the top.
Fold over the top edge and staple.
Toss it in with your ammo and close the can.
They say that you can "recharge" silica gel by baking it in an oven at 200 deg for 3 hours. I plan to recharge them once a year.
Tuesday, June 2, 2015
Ammo Shelves
Here is a sturdy shelf unit that will hold 20 full ammo cans. It costs about $40-45 to build. You can build this with just a circular saw and a cordless drill/driver. However, I used a miter saw, table saw, framing nailer, crown stapler, and impact driver. For the truly thrifty, much of these materials can be found discarded at construction sites.
Material List:
7 2x4's ($2.53 each at Home Depot)
OSB ($12.57 a sheet)
48 2.5" deck screws ($8.47 for a box of 86)
crown staples or drywall screws ($6.47 for a box of 200)
32 framing nails or 2.5" deck screws
Each shelf is 36" wide by 14" deep. Start by making a box with 2 36" and 2 11" 2x4's. Put 2 nails or screws into the end of each long piece to fasten it to the shorter pieces. Cover this frame with a 14x36" piece of OSB. Secure it with crown staples or drywall screws to the frame. Then make 3 more.
Cut 4 42" pieces of 2x4 for the uprights. There are 3 screws wherever an upright meets a shelf. There is 12" between the top of each shelf. You could use nails instead of screws, but screws are less likely to come loose, and you can rapidly disassemble or reconfigure it. The shelf spacing gives you just enough room for an ammo can with the handle folded flat. You might want more clearance, but I wanted this unit to be as short as possible so it would be sturdy.
General or Food Storage Shelf Unit:
If you change the dimensions, but build it in the same way, you can make a much larger shelf unit. Make the uprights 78". Make the shelves 24x48" and space the shelves 24". This shelf uses 10 2x4's, one sheet of OSB, and the same nails/screws as the ammo shelf unit. Material cost is about $50. Hint: cut the OSB to 23.75 x 48" so you can get 4 pieces out of one sheet. Most big home improvement stores will have a panel saw and can cut sheet goods to size for you.
Here's an idea (one that I practice). Build one (or two) of the larger version of this shelf unit. Then go to Costco and stock up on nonperishable food items that you use on a regular basis. Rotate and replenish your stock by expiration date. Expiration dates can be hard to find and read, so I remark each expiration date with a Sharpie. You will save money in the long run, have an emergency food supply without having to pay anything extra for it, and it only takes up 8 square feet of space in your basement.
Material List:
7 2x4's ($2.53 each at Home Depot)
OSB ($12.57 a sheet)
48 2.5" deck screws ($8.47 for a box of 86)
crown staples or drywall screws ($6.47 for a box of 200)
32 framing nails or 2.5" deck screws
Each shelf is 36" wide by 14" deep. Start by making a box with 2 36" and 2 11" 2x4's. Put 2 nails or screws into the end of each long piece to fasten it to the shorter pieces. Cover this frame with a 14x36" piece of OSB. Secure it with crown staples or drywall screws to the frame. Then make 3 more.
Cut 4 42" pieces of 2x4 for the uprights. There are 3 screws wherever an upright meets a shelf. There is 12" between the top of each shelf. You could use nails instead of screws, but screws are less likely to come loose, and you can rapidly disassemble or reconfigure it. The shelf spacing gives you just enough room for an ammo can with the handle folded flat. You might want more clearance, but I wanted this unit to be as short as possible so it would be sturdy.
General or Food Storage Shelf Unit:
If you change the dimensions, but build it in the same way, you can make a much larger shelf unit. Make the uprights 78". Make the shelves 24x48" and space the shelves 24". This shelf uses 10 2x4's, one sheet of OSB, and the same nails/screws as the ammo shelf unit. Material cost is about $50. Hint: cut the OSB to 23.75 x 48" so you can get 4 pieces out of one sheet. Most big home improvement stores will have a panel saw and can cut sheet goods to size for you.
Here's an idea (one that I practice). Build one (or two) of the larger version of this shelf unit. Then go to Costco and stock up on nonperishable food items that you use on a regular basis. Rotate and replenish your stock by expiration date. Expiration dates can be hard to find and read, so I remark each expiration date with a Sharpie. You will save money in the long run, have an emergency food supply without having to pay anything extra for it, and it only takes up 8 square feet of space in your basement.
Saturday, May 30, 2015
Refinishing a Walnut Stock
The following is a simple method for refinishing a walnut stock. I have used this on M-1's, 10/22's and Enfields, and have been very pleased with the results.
You will need:
Easy Off oven cleaner
dish washing gloves
3M green scratch pad
old tooth brush
00 very fine steel wool
0000 super fine steel wool
rags (old t-shirts)
Your choice of finish:
Tung oil for a lighter finish
Linseed oil for your standard GI finish
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil for a somewhat glossy finish
Birchwood Casey walnut stain + Tru-Oil for a darker somewhat glossy finish
I like linseed oil for a surplus rifle, and Tru-Oil for a commercial rifle.
Stripping the stock:
Remove all metal parts. For the Garand, I recommend getting handguard clip pliers, $19.95 from CMP. Put on some dishwashing gloves and safety glasses, go to the sink and spray the entire stock with Easy Off. Don't leave it on for long. Use a green 3M pad and scrub the stock under hot running water. I like to use a tooth brush gently over any cartouches, rather that the scratch pad. Be careful with the oven cleaner. It is sodium hydroxide (lye) and it will burn you and can seriously damage your eyes. Breathing it can irritate your lungs, so open a window or run the range hood if it is nearby. Repeat this process if it does not look like all the finish came off.
Let the stock dry for about two days. You want it bone dry before you proceed.
Sand the stock with 00 steel wool. Put your thumb over any cartouches to protect them during this process. Repeat with 0000 steel wool. Dings can be raised with a wet cloth and an iron, or sanded out with sand paper. Wipe off any steel wool fragments when you are done.
For tung or linseed oil, just wipe it down, let it dry for a day, and repeat until it looks right. For Birchwood-Casey products, follow the instructions. Test the finish on the inside the stock where it won't be seen to check if you like it before proceeding.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)