Glock Sight Tools

Thinking about changing out the sights on your Glock?  Thinking about doing it yourself, but the tools are more expensive that having a gunsmith do it?  You can buy the tools needed for about $120 from conventional sources (Midway or Brownells).  Or you can buy them from eBay and Lowes/Home Depot, work a little DIY magic, and the damage will be about $43.  Yes, you can do it with a punch, but the site pusher is gentler and does a better job of making small adjustments at the range.

Maryland Gun Works makes a very nice rear sight pusher tool that costs about $100.

Ed Brown makes a front sight tool that runs around $20.

You can get a less expensive sight pusher on eBay for $39.95 (free shipping) from a seller named 4x4machineshop.  This works on the Glock, 1911, and most pistols with straight sides.  They have another model that includes shims for pistols with angled sides for $49.95.  I have used this tool to install sights on my Glock and it works well.  You will need a wrench to turn the bolt.  This tool is also handy for adjusting your sights at the range.

You can make your own front sight tool for the Glock.  Just get a 3/16" 6 point 1/4" drive deep socket ($2.97 from Lowes).  You will have to use a bench grinder to make it work.  The front site screw is very close to the front of the slide and the socket is too fat to clear the space.  Grind away the circumference of the body of the socket until it will fit.  Also, the screw head is very low profile.  You fill have to flatten the the end of the socket, because the rounded edges won't let it grip the screw.  You also need to taper the end a bit.

You could also buy a Craftsman 3/16" nut driver at your local Sears for $6.49.  You still might have to grind the tip a bit due to the rounded edges at the end and the very low profile nature of the Glock front sight screw head.

You will also need a triangular file for fitting of the rear sight to the dovetail.  You can pick one of these up for under $5.  I won't go into the process of how you change out the sights.  There are plenty of resources on the internet for that.

DIY Castle 2 - The Keep (safe room)

Your prototypical castle has a keep, a fortified structure within the castle walls as a secondary fallback defensive position in the event that the castle walls are breached.  The keep for a modern castle is a safe room.  The term safe room conjures of images of high tech vaults that only the super rich could afford.  However, a safe room can be built very affordably by the typical home owner.

The first consideration for a safe room is placement.  This will vary based on the design of the home and needs of the home owner.  If you live by yourself or just you and your spouse, the master bedroom might be your best option.  When you are asleep at night, you are already locked in your safe room.  If you have a child, you could make your child's room a safe room.  When intruders are banging on the door, just run to your child's room and lock yourselves in.  If you live alone and are paranoid about taking a shower because you might not hear an intruder breaking in, then make the bathroom your safe room.  Another good option is the master bedroom walk in closet.  Some modifications that are about to be suggested are less than aesthetic, but you may not be concerned about the aesthetics of your closet.

Once you have chosen a location, the first step is replacing or reinforcing the door itself.  Interior doors are not as sturdy as exterior doors.  You could buy a steel exterior door (about $100-150) and hang it in your existing door frame.  Be aware that exterior doors have slightly different dimensions.  They are slightly thicker, so the door will protrude from the trim into the room a little.  They are also slighter shorter, so there will be a gap at the bottom.  You can cut a piece of wood to size and screw it to the bottom of the door to cover this gap.

A more aesthetic option for hanging a steel door is to remove and replace the door jamb.  This involves removing the old jamb with a chisel.  Then place a board along the top of the opening to account for the interior/exterior door height difference.  Next make your own jamb and nail it to the frame in the correct location to account for the thickness of the door.  Some putty, caulk and paint will be involved.  If you don't have a table saw and a router table, this may not be your best option.

Another option is to buy and install a complete exterior door and frame set.  This would also be more aesthetic, would not require expensive tools, but would be a little more expensive for materials.

Lastly, there is the economy option.  Screw a piece of plywood to your existing door.  Although you can paint it to match your door, this is not going to be pretty.  You might not mind it on the inside of your walk in closet though.  A sheet of 3/4" thick oak plywood runs about $50.  Lowes or Home Depot will have a panel saw to cut it to size for you.  You will need to make a cut out for the door knob and deadbolt (you should add a deadbolt).  Screw this to the inside of your door with numerous 2" deck screws or case hardened screws.  Paint if you like.

Next you need to reinforce the latch plate, door around the deadbolt, and hinges.  This is covered in my previous post.

Additional door reinforcement is good idea.  I like the door bar from barricade.com that sells for about $70.  You still want a deadbolt though.  The deadbolt is fast to activate and will buy you time to put the bar in place.  Note the exterior steel door mounted where the closet door used to hang.

Now that your door is secure, you need to think about the walls.  It doesn't take much to break through dry wall.  You could buy some 1x4" oak boards and screw them horizontally to the studs at 2', 3' and 4' above the floor.  Then paint to match your wall or trim - your choice.  Or if an intruder is breaking through your safe room wall, you might choose to defend yourself.  You should obey all applicable laws in your area.

Inside my safe room I have two phones.  One is cheap phone that doesn't require electricity that is plugged into a phone jack that I installed.  The other is an old cell phone plugged into a charger.  Cell phones that no longer have carrier subscriptions are still able to dial 911.

I also have a 5 gallon plastic bucket and lid with bottled water and trail mix inside.  If we are stuck inside the safe room for a while, we won't go hungry or thirsty.  You don't want to deal with "daddy, I'm hungry" at a stressful time.  The bucket can be used as an emergency toilet.  I think I'll add a can of Lysol too.

DIY Castle

Your home is your castle.  Castles are fortified.  Is yours?  Home invaders can breach most homes in seconds with a strong kick to the door near the latch.  A home security system is a good idea, but they have serious limitations.  They will call 911 for you.  They will make a loud noise to alert you that someone is already in your house.  This also lets the criminal know that the police are on the way.  This still gives them plenty of time to kill or maim you and steal your stuff.  Remember, when seconds count, the police are only minutes away!  Fortifying you home will either keep the invader from getting in, or at a minimum buy you time to arm yourself and gather your family.

When fortifying your home, you have to consider the weak points, and address those first.  The weakest point is typically the door jamb of your entry doors.  You should have a deadbolt (preferably ANSI grade I).  However, the wood around the throw bolt is flimsy and will not stand up to a strong kick.  You can reinforce the jamb with a kit from Strikemaster (asafehome.net) or EZ Armor (armor concepts.com).  These kits run about $70 and can be purchased from Lowes or Home Depot.  They typically include a long reinforced strike plate that spreads out the force of a kick over and larger area and long screws that go all the way into the studs, not just the trim.

You can also make your own strike plate if you are handy and have the right tools.  You can buy a 1.5" x 36" x 1/8" piece of steel from your Lowes or Home Depot.  You will need a drill (drill press is better) and a die grinder.  A Dremel will work, but it will take a long time and you will go through several grinding stones.  The holes for the latch and throw bolt don't have to be perfect, because you can put your existing latch plates back over them.  Notice that the screws are off center so they are closer to the center of the stud.

The next weak points are the hinges and the door material around the deadbolt.  You can replace the hinge screws with 3" long screws.  You really only need to replace 2 on each side of each hinge, the ones closer to the center of the door or door frame.  You can use deck screws, or better yet, you can buy case hardened  screws from grainger.com, item# 4VYK3.  You can buy fingernail polish in a color that matches your hardware to touch up the screw heads.  Be careful not to screw them in to tight, as you can warp your door frame.

You can reinforce the door around the deadbolt with a door reinforcer from Lowes or Home Depot.  Some strike plate kits like the ones mentioned above come with door reinforcing hardware.

Double doors are trickier to reinforce.  Strikemaster makes a french door kit that runs about $90.  You can also add a Nightlock device from nightlock.com for about $40.  These work on double or single doors, but they are a form of passive security - they only work if you remember to slide it into place.

Another consideration is the garage.  Do you have a car parked outside with a garage door opener on the visor?  You might want to do something about that.  Also, the emergency release pull rope on your garage door should be removed.  Thieves have been known to use a coat hanger to fish out this rope at the the top of the door and then pull it to gain access to your garage.  You can make your own tool from a coat hanger to pull the emergency release if you ever have a power outage.

Sliding glass doors are another weak point.  Older sliding doors can be lifted up and removed from the track.  You can prevent this buy putting a few screws in the top of the track with the heads exposed enough to prevent the door from being lifted.

If your front door has glass in it or if you have sidelights, a criminal can easily break the glass and reach in to unlock your door.  One option is to install a double cylinder deadbolt that requires a key on both sides.  If you do this you will want to have a extra key handy somewhere nearby in case of fire.  If you replace your deadbolt (preferably ANSI grade I) your local Lowes or Home Depot can rekey it to match your existing house key for free or a minimal charge.  Or you can apply a plastic laminate to the glass.  I'll let you do your own research on that one.

Windows are probably your last concern (as long as you keep them locked).  The sound of breaking glass would alert you to an intruder, and the time it takes to clear the broken shards, open the window, and crawl through will buy you some time.  You could laminate all your windows, or all your first floor windows, for an extra measure of protection, but this is expensive.

LTR Sr. - Liberty Training Rifle for Aging Eyes

I built this rifle for me.  I'm a large man and my eyes are not what they used to be.  I wanted an extended length of pull and a scope.

I started with a Walmart Ruger 10/22 for about $200.  This rifle has many of the same upgrades as the LTR Jr. in my previous post.  The magazine release, target hammer, bolt release, QD studs, sling swivels, sling are all the same.  The finish and the free floated forend are the same.

I added a John Masen recoil pad from Midway for $14.99.  This extends length of pull to 14.5".

I used the factory included Weaver rail.  The scope rings are Weaver #48630, medium height 1" rings, $34.99 from Midway.

The scope is a Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32 Adjustable Objective.  It runs $74.99 at Midway, but I've seen it as low as $54.99 on Amazon.  I chose this scope mainly because of the price point and the adjustable objective (AO).  AO is important if you are going to be shooting at things that are close, like the 25 yard targets at Appleseed.  It also works for indoor dry firing at reduced size targets.  You can find printable Appleseed targets online that are scaled down for indoor dry firing at 30 feet.  This scope comes with rings, but they are flimsy.

The cheek rest is kydex and was bought on eBay from dan5743 for $30.

I like the cheek rest, but I didn't care for the knobs that came with it.  I replaced them with knobs from Duckworks Boat Builders Supply,  IC-KN4C-F2-70 - 1/4-20 Fluted Knob, for $1.35 each.

LTR Jr. - Liberty Training Rifle for Small People

Here is how I built a smaller version of a Ruger 10/22 based Liberty Training Rifle (LTR).  The LTR concept was born out of Project Appleseed.  The LTR is a rifle that has the same sights and sling as a service rifle, but shoots inexpensive .22 LR.  Typically these are shot at reduced size targets at 25 yards or meters.  They are typically used for Project Appleseed training, but this configuration is ideal for multiple purposes like marksmanship training, hunting, plinking.

I started with a basic Ruger 10/22.  You can get one at Walmart for about $200.  Then I bought the usual LTR goodies:

Must Haves:
TSR-100 Tech sights $59
Uncle Mike's QD studs and 1.25" sling swivels #13113, $9.99
GI sling (Midway or Tech Sights) $14

Nice to Have:
Bell & Carlson extended mag release, $5.99
Volquartsen target hammer and bolt release, $44.99

Then I bought a used walnut 10/22 stock on eBay for $40.  I wanted to keep the original stock for larger shooters to use or if I ever resell the rifle.  I shortened the the buttstock to give a 12.5" length of pull for smaller shooters.  I also removed the barrel band and part of the forend to free float the barrel and further reduce weight.

First,  wearing rubber gloves, I stripped the stock by spraying EasyOff oven cleaner all over it, then scrubbed it in the sink under running hot water with a 3M green pad.  I repeated as needed to remove the finish.  I let it dry overnight.

I placed the comb against the miter gauge of the table saw.  I had to use a block of wood as a spacer to make it work.

I removed just enough stock to get rid of the inletting for the factory buttplate.  See original stock on left and removed portion on right.

I bought Brownells universal buttplate (small), part# B331M for $14.95.

I centered the buttplate and marked the holes and drilled them with a 5/32" brad point bit.  I screwed it on and cut off the extra plastic with a Dremel cutoff wheel.  Then I shaped it with a Dremel sanding drum.  Then I sanded the butt / buttplate junction with 60 grit sandpaper for a seamless look.

Next I cut of the part of the forend that is stepped down for the barrel band.

I rounded off the cut edge with a Dremel sanding drum.  I then contoured it a bit with 60 grit sandpaper.  Next I marked the holes for the QD studs, 1.25" from each end and centered.  I drilled them with a 5/32" brad point bit.  Then I sanded the whole stock with 100, 150, 240 grit sandpaper, then 00 and 0000 steel wool.  Then I removed the buttplate and finished it with Birchwood Casey Tru Oil ($7).  Then I put the buttplate and QD studs on and put it back on the rifle and attached the sling.

M14/M1A Gas Piston / Gas Plug Cleaning Drills

You need a set of drills to clean the gas plug and gas piston on the M14/M1A rifle.  Sadlak makes these and to buy all three would cost you $43.48 from Midway.  I made my own for less.

The correct drill bits are letter and number gauge sizes, not available at your local hardware store.  I ordered the drills and the handles from MSC Industrial Supply:

01008150, #15 aircraft length drill, $4.71
01189158, O gauge jobber length drill, $3.39
01189166, P gauge jobber length drill, $3.68
00651042, 1' x 4" file handle, $1.31 x 3 = $3.93
Shipping $11.60
Total $27.31

The #15 and the P are for the gas piston and the O is for the gas plug.  The shipping was a bit high, but they arrived in two days.  You're still saving money.

I drilled out the inside of the handles with progressively larger drill bits until I could squeeze the drill in.  I had to use pliers to hold the ends of the wire wrapping on the handles.  The ends of the wire wrap stick into the center cavity and want to push out while you are drilling.

I used linseed oil on the handles, and engraved the O and P because it is hard to tell them apart by looking.  You need to grind down the tips of the drills so you are not drilling a hole in your gas cylinder or gas plug when you clean it.

To remove the gas plug, you need a 3/8" box end wrench or M14 combo tool and a gas cylinder wrench.  The best deal on a gas cylinder wrench is Fulton Armory for $9.95.  The gas plug is torqued to 130-150 inch pounds.  Make index marks with a Sharpie on the gas plug and cylinder before removing the gas plug.  Line them back up when you reassemble and you should have the same torque.  Use anti-seize on the gas plug threads.

I've seen various recommendations on how often to clean the gas piston/cylinder.  I clean it every 1,000 rounds or whenever you can't hear the piston move back and forth inside the cylinder when you tip the rifle with the bolt locked open.

Gun Vise

Here is how to make a simple useful gun vise.  You need an 8" handscrew clamp ($7.99 from Harbor Freight), some 3" screws (deck screws work well), and a board.  I used a 2x10 because that's what I had laying around.  You could use a 2x8 or even a 2x6.

The base is 42" long.  You could make it shorter, but I wanted it to be heavy so it doesn't move around.  The clamp sits on a 2" tall x 1.5" wide x 6" long block that is screwed to the base from underneath with 2 screws.  The clamp is screwed to the block with 2 screws.

The V rest is 7" tall.  The bottom of the V is 4" from the base.  It is screwed to the base from underneath with 5 screws, 30" from the clamp end.  On the top photo you can see some extra holes where I had the V rest farther away, but had to move it to accommodate some shorter firearms (Ruger 10/22).  Initially I was planning on padding the clamp and the V rest with some pieces of leather from an old belt, but I never got around to doing it.  I've used it a lot and it hasn't marred any of my guns.

Here is the gun vise in action:

Putting Together an AR15 Cleaning Kit

A standard GI issue M16 cleaning kit is cheap ($10-15 range) and will get the job done.  The drawback to this is the steel sectioned cleaning rod, that can damage your barrel.

You can get a one-piece coated rod, but this is not practical in the field.  You could use a boresnake, but this is not the ideal way to clean a rifle.

The Otis MSR/AR Cleaning system is fantastic.  It has a coated steel cable that you pull from chamber to muzzle.  It includes the BONE tool for scraping carbon from the bolt, carrier and firing pin.  It has a bunch of picks, brushes, etc.  It is a very well thought out kit that has everything you need in a nifty little case.  The only problem is that is costs $70.  Amazon currently has this kit for $46.07, but who knows how long that will last.  You can get the same kit without the BONE tool from Brownells for $45.99.

There is a middle path.  You can order the basic individual items from the Otis kit, direct from Otis, and put together a more economical kit that will serve the same function.

Here's what you need:

30" memory-flex cable, IP-C-30, $9.49
.22-.27 slotted tip, IP110007P, $2.99
small obstruction remover, IP110022P, $1.29
T-handle, IP110001P, $2.99
cleaning brush, FG-316-T-BL, $3.99
chamber brush, FG-367, $4.29
.22 bore brush, FG-322, $2.99
Total:  $28.03

Or if you already have a GI cleaning kit, or if you buy one for about $10, then you will not need any of the brushes, plus you will have a case to put it in.  You will need a NATO brush adapter to use the GI brushes.  

30" memory-flex cable, IP-C-30, $9.49
.22-.27 slotted tip, IP110007P, $2.99
small obstruction remover, IP110022P, $1.29
T-handle, IP110001P, $2.99
NATO brush adapter, IP-316-2, $1.49
Total:  $18.25

So that's $18.25 if you already have a GI kit, or about $28.25 if you have to buy one.  If you already have a GI kit, I would just order the $18.25 worth of parts (and I did).  If you don't have a GI kit already, and Amazon is still selling them for $46.07, I would think about getting the Otis kit.  I think it is worth a few more bucks to get the BONE tool, all the nifty gadgets, and the nice case.

The BONE tool looks pretty cool, but I have seen mixed reviews on it.  Some say it doesn't work very well.  Some prefer the Real Avid AR-15 scraper tool, that costs about $15.  I use what I have used since basic training, an improvised tool made from a coat hanger.  Cut a piece of coat hanger about 7" long.  Don't use one of the flimsy white coat hangers.  Flatten the ends with a hammer.  Use pliers to put a 90 degree bend in one end.  Sharpen the ends with a file or grinding wheel.  Coat hanger steel is softer than your bolt or carrier, so it won't damage anything.  Works well, gets done inside the carrier, and it's free.

Tools for Building an AR-15 Lower

Building an AR-15 lower is doable for just about anyone.  I will discuss what tools you really need, the ones that you don't need, where to get them and how much they cost.

WHAT YOU NEED

First you will need roll pin punches.  Regular punches don't work well on roll pins.  You need the following sizes:
#2  5/64"
#3  3/32"
#4  1/8"
You can buy these from Brownells for $3.99, $4.99 & $4.99 ($13.97 total) or you can buy a set of Lyman #1, #2, #3, #4 punches from Midway for $17.49 or CheaperThanDirt for $15.66.  You won't need the #1  1/16" punch unless you are building the upper (the gas tube pin).  Or you might need it if you buy a bolt separate from the upper.  In order to check head space, you have to remove the 1/16" pin from the ejector.

If you are putting on a collapsible buttstock, you will need a buttstock / castle nut wrench.  You can buy the Tapco wrench from Brownells for $9.99, Midway for $8.39 or CheaperThanDirt for $7.57.

If your lower parts kit uses a phillips head grip screw, you will need a long phillips head screwdriver.  If your parts kit has a hex head screw, you will need a long 3/16" allen/hex bit or socket.  I used a hex bit from my gun screwdriver set (Midway part# 450879 for $10.99).  The screwdriver handle was not long enough to reach the screw, so I extended it with the bit holder from my cordless drill.

WHAT YOU DON"T NEED

You don't need a special hammer.  You can use any old hammer.  When you are tapping in the trigger and hammer pins, you can put some masking tape on the hammer face.

You don't need Brownells special bolt catch punch for $17.99, you can just put masking tape on the side of the receiver to protect it and use a regular roll pin punch.  This would be a nice tool to have if you assemble lower receivers on a regular basis, but you don't need it to build your first AR.

You don't need a special tool for installing the pivot pin.  You can use a 1/4" x 2" cleavis pin that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes for about 50 cents.  You can also use an Allen wrench that just fits the pivot pin holes.  I like the cleavis pin better.

You don't need roll pin starter punches.  You can just tape the pin to a regular roll pin punch to get it started.

NOT NEEDED, BUT NICE TO HAVE

You don't need a lower receiver action block, but it is nice to have.  Makes everything easier, especially putting on the buttstock.  It is handy for cleaning or working on your rifle later.  You need to have a bench vise to use it.  You can get the Promag model from Midway for $10.49 or CheaperThanDirt for $8.22, or you can make your own, as detailed in my previous post.  Or you could use an old magazine if you have one that you don't mind putting sacrificing to the vise.

You don't need a special tool for installing the pivot pin.  You can use a 1/4" x 2" cleavis pin that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes for about 50 cents.  You can also use an Allen wrench that just fits the pivot pin holes.  I like the cleavis pin better.  You can put the spring and detent through one of the holes in the pin, push it in with a punch, and then use the punch to rotate it to capture the spring and detent.  Then use the pivot pin to push the clevis pin out of the way.  It works like a charm, and 50 cents is cheap insurance for not shooting the pivot pin spring across the room and not being able to find it.

Other nice to haves are a gunsmith screwdriver set.  You can get these in the $10 and under range.  Also a vise, if you are going to use an action block.

If any of your parts have a rough texture the seems to gather dust and dirt like a magnet, some 0000 steel wool will smooth it out without harming the finish.  A microfiber cloth, like people use to wash their cars, works well for wiping down you weapon.

I'm not going to walk you though the assembly of the lower receiver.  There are some excellent videos on the internet for that.  I highly recommend the Brownells videos.  Go to www.brownells.com, then click on the "Learn" tab, then click on "Build an AR-15".  Word of warning:  Brownells will suggest that you need some of their specialized tools, that you don't really need.  See above tool recommendations.  The CheaperThanDirt videos are also good.  They show you how to do it without all the specialized tools.  http://articles.cheaperthandirt.com/category/ar15/  I would watch all of these videos before getting started.

Building a High Quality Low Cost AR15

Most of the sources on AR15's that I have seen on the internet would give you the impression that if you want to buy or build a decent AR15, you are going to be spending about $1,000 or more.  They will caution you that you can build them cheaper, but your rifle will be crap.  I have found that you can actually build a high quality rifle for about $600 + $25 or so worth of tools, and I'll tell you how.

A great source for high quality, low cost parts is Palmetto State Armory (PSA) in South Carolina.  I have no relationship to them other than being a satisfied customer.  They are located just down the road from the Fabrique National - Herstal factory.  If you buy a barrel from PSA that is marked "CHF"  or is marketed as "Machine Gun Steel" it is a cold hammer forged barrel made by FN.  These are high quality long lasting barrels.  The same ones the military uses.  John Browning worked for FN, so they have been at it a while.  They know how to make barrels.

The bolts that PSA uses are 158 Carpenter steel, high pressure tested and magnetic particle inspected.  The gas keys are properly staked.  You can buy quality parts from other companies like BCM or Daniel Defense, but I don't think you are getting anything extra for your money.

PSA is currently selling an M4 style rifle parts kit with all the above features for $499 w/ free shipping.  Everything you need minus the lower receiver, rear sight and magazine.  The downside to PSA is that they are frequently out of stock of various items.  Frequently the one that you want.  You might have to wait a month or two for that item to be back in stock.  I think they are worth the wait.  They have frequent deals, so if you watch and wait, you can save big.

You can find some deals on lower receivers from PSA, but you will have to go through an FFL (your local gun shop / LGS) and pay a transfer fee.  My LGS charges $30 for this.  You might as well just buy the lower receiver from your LGS.  This will set you back about $100.  Most lower receivers out there are made by a handful of manufacturers (LMT, LAR, CMT, or MMS) that all make high quality mil-spec receivers.  These are just rebranded with a logo.  For example:  Stag, Rock River, and Colt are all made by CMT.  Bushmaster, Spikes and CMMG are all made by LAR.  You get the idea.  There are a few names that I have been told to avoid.  They are Hesse, Vulcan and Blackthorne.  Word on the street is that this is all the same company that just keeps renaming itself, and they have a reputation for making cheap crap that breaks.

You can build the upper yourself, but you will have to buy a bunch of expensive tools (barrel nut wrench, torque wrench, upper action block, etc.)  You will not save much or anything building the upper yourself.  Better to buy a complete upper.  If you buy a complete upper that includes the bolt, then you don't have to worry about the headspacing either.

The real savings comes form building the lower yourself.  It is easy to do, and requires only a few specialized tools that are not expensive.  There are online videos that will walk you through it.  See my next post for a discussion on the tools that you will need.

DIY Lower Receiver Action Block (Vise Block) for the AR15

I'm going to show you how to make a lower receiver action block for the AR15 rifle.  These are very handy for building or cleaning your rifle.  You can buy these from Brownells or Midway for $10 to $50.  Or you can make your own for next to nothing if you have the right tools.  Even if you have to buy the T-bevel and the Dremel bit that are required, it costs roughly the same as the cheapest one you could buy and now you have a few more handy tools for future projects.  For example, both the bit and T bevel come in very handy to properly fit a new stock to a Garand.  If you don't have a Dremel tool, you need one anyway if you plan on doing much work on firearms.  If you don't have a table saw, find a friend who does and make him an action block too.  Also, this block can be modified to let you safely dry fire.  This comes in handy for trigger work.  Once you've made one, its easy to make more to have a spare, or loan or give to your friends.

Tools needed:

Table saw
T-bevel  ($4.97 at Home Depot or $2.99 at Harbor Freight)
Dremel tool
Dremel 194 high speed cutter bit (or similar cutting bit)
rule or tape measure
pencil
masking tape

Materials:

aprox 18" long piece of 2x4

Instructions:

First rip the 2x4 to a width of 2 3/8" (the longer interior dimension of the magazine well).  The shorter interior dimension of the mag well is 7/8".  You will want to mark the end of your board at 7/8" and set the height of your table saw blade to cut away all but 7/8" of the thickness of your board.  If you use a regular blade, you will have to make a lot of cuts.  If you use a dado blade, it will take fewer passes, but it takes time to change out the blade.  Using the miter gauge on your table saw (set at 90 deg), make multiple passes until you have about 2" inches of the end that is reduced to 7/8" thick.

Now fit that end into your lower receiver.  Use the T bevel to gauge the angle between the block and the bottom of the mag well.  Do this by placing the wood or plastic part of the T bevel along the edge of the board, and the metal part of the T bevel along the bottom of the mag well.  Lock the T bevel at that angle.

Now transfer that angle to the miter gauge on your table saw.  Loosen up the miter gauge and place the wood or plastic part of the T bevel against the miter gauge and the metal part of the T bevel against the saw blade.  Adjust the miter gauge and then tighten it back up.

Make several more cuts on your work piece until it fits into the mag well of your receiver nicely.  The finished product only needs to be 8-10" long, so you have room for mistakes/trial and error.  Now place a piece of masking tape on the side of your receiver just below the magazine catch on the left side.  Push the magazine release button in until you can rotate the magazine catch out and away.  Let it rest on the masking tape.  Now put the block into the mag well and mark the outline of the magazine catch.  Also make a mark along the top of the receiver so you can trim the block flush with the top.  Now use the cutting bit on the Dremel tool to carve a slot about 1/8" deep.

Trim the board along the top line in the table saw.  Now cut your block to length.  I cut mine to 8", but you make want it longer or shorter depending on your vise and preference.

You can screw a block of wood to the top to block the hammer for safe dry firing when working on the trigger.

First Post / Introduction

This blog is primarily about DIY firearms related projects for service rifles (M1 Garand, M14/M1A, AR15) and the Ruger 10/22.  I may also be inclined to discuss self-defense and Second Amendment related issues.  I am an Army veteran, libertarian, and gun owner.  I am not a gunsmith and do not consider myself a firearms or security expert.  However, I am reasonably handy with tools and game to take on a project.  In the upcoming posts I will detail some projects that I have done and talk about some things that I have learned while researching them.  Topics will include building an AR15 and a Liberty Training rifle, as well as how to make some of the tools and fixtures you may need.